Baintha /Orge/Latok group (7,285m) - 30 Days

Baintha comes under the “Seven Of The World’s Most Treacherous Climbs” More commonly known as The Ogre, Baintha Brakk, was first conquered in 1971, but wasn’t summated again until 2001, marking its extremely difficult nature. One of the heroes of the first ascent, Doug Scott, didn’t escape unscathed either; he broke both of his legs on the way down, eventually crawling back to safety.This mountain has only been summitted twice, despite numerous attempts by highly qualified, top-of-their-game mountaineers.Baintha Brakk is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb. It is steep and craggy and 7,285m high lies in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range, North Pakistan.

It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than most other Karakoram peaks and is on the northeastern side of Biafo Glacier (west of K2). It is sinister and foreboding and its sheer east wall looks and acts like a medieval fortress. It is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, steepness. For example, its South Face rises over 3,000 metres (9,800 ft) above the Uzun Brakk Glacier in only 2 kilometres (1 mile) of horizontal distance!

It is because of this steepness and rockiness that the mountain was nicknamed ‘The Ogre’ and became so attactive for extremely highly qualified mountaineers.

There were two unsuccessful attempts on the peak in 1971 and 1976, but it was finally sucessfully summitted in 1977 by two Britons, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. On 13th July, 1977, Scott and Bonington set off from a snowhole at 7,000m in a lightweight bid to make the summit. They climbed via the Southwest Spur to the West Ridge, and over the West Summit to the Main Summit. Tricky climbing led up to the final tower with a nearly vertical 100m granite face.  The long second pitch involved very demanding free- and aid-climbing (VI and A2) and included a giant pendulum movement at half-height to gain a second crack system. Above that, several more hard, challenging  pitches led to the summit, which the pair reached just before dusk.

This was probably the hardest technical climb ever achieved above 7,000m at that time.

On the descent, Scott attempted to make a diagonal rappel from just below the top, slipped, made a huge involuntary pendulum across the wall, slammed into a rock corner on the far side and badly broke both his ankles. From now on the descent would be a fight for survival, or as Scott reflected, ‘so that’s how it was going to be; a whole new game with new restrictions on winning’.

After a night out in the open with no equipment, the two continued rappelling and were eventually met by Antoine and Rowland (members of their team), who escorted them back to the snowcave, Scott on hands and knees. The four were then trapped for more than 24 hours in a fierce blizzard with no food remaining.

Rowland made a superb effort, leading the team through atrocious weather over the West Summit and down to a second, much poorer, snowcave. The next day the storm was, if anything, worse but the three fit climbers battled down, escorting a sliding or crawling Scott towards two flattened tents left at the West Col. If things weren’t already bad enough, they then took a turn for the worse after Bonington fell, breaking two ribs and badly damaging his hand. It was now left to Antoine and Rowland to get the party off the mountain before it became too late.

Four days later, when Scott finally crawled over the moraine above Base Camp, his clothing torn to shreds, his knees raw and bloody, Braithwaite and Estcourt (the remaining team members) had already left, having given the party up for dead. Scott was subsequently carried for three days by local porters to the nearest village, where a helicopter was able to evacuate him. However, a bad landing put the aircraft out of action and Bonington was forced to wait another week before he could be flown to safety by which time he had contracted pneumonia.

The 1977 ascent has undoubtedly gone down in the annals of British mountaineering  history as one of its supreme moments, but only confirms that when operating at the highest levels, climbers often tread a very fine line… a line between life and death.

The second ascent of Baintha Brakk was made by Urs Stöcker, Iwan Wolf, and Thomas Huber, on 21 July 2001, via the South Pillar route, following their first ascent of the subsidiary peak, Ogre III (6,800 metres – 22,300 ft). Mountain INFO magazine characterized their ascent as “arguably the most notable mountaineering achievement during the entire 2001 season.”

By the beginning of 2001 almost 20 expeditions, involving world-class mountaineers, had tried the Ogre by various routes, most concentrating on either the elegant South or South East Pillars. Few had come within 300m of the summit and no one other than the Scott, Bonington, Stöcker, Wolf and Huber had managed to stand on the highest point.

Much of Baintha Brakk remains unconquered – the South Pillar, the South-West Face, the East Summit, the South-East Ridge and Baintha Brakk II despite many valiant efforts which have been made over the past decades…

For those who dare to have a go at the mountain, hungry black bears add to the challenge. The bears have a penchant for seizing expedition food and terrorizing cooks and Pakistani Guide/ liaison officer and the Kitchen staff guard the base camps.

Baintha Brakk is Exceptional in its Combination Of Altitude, Height Above Local Terrain, And Steepness. It is a Complex Granite Tower, Steeper And Rockier Than Most Other Karakoram Peaks. (The Latok Peaks Next To Baintha Brakk Are Similar, However.) For Example, Its South Face Rises Over 3,000 Metres (9,800 Ft) Above The Uzun Brakk Glacier In Only 2 Km (1.24 Mi) Of Horizontal Distance.

It Is Because Of This Steep, Rocky Nature That Baintha Brakk Has Been Both So Difficult To Climb And So Attractive A Target For Extremely High-Level Mountaineers.

Latok Peaks:

The Latok Group Is A Small Cluster Of Dramatic Rock Peaks In The Panmah Muztagh, Part Of The Central Karakoram Mountain Range In Pakistan. They Lie Just To The East Of The Ogre Group, Dominated By Baintha Brakk. To The Immediate South Of The Latok Group Lies The Baintha Lukpar Glacier, A Small Tributary Of The Biafo Glacier, One Of The Main Glaciers Of The Karakoram. On The North Side Of The Group Lies The Choktoi Glacier.

The Group Comprises Four Main Summits, Each Listed Here With Its Relative Position In The Group, Elevation,[1] And First Ascent Date:

Latok I, North-Central, 7,145 M, Climbed 1979
Latok II, West, 7,108 M, Climbed 1977
Latok III, East, 6,949 M, Climbed 1979
Latok IV, Southeast, 6,456 M, Climbed 1980
All Of The Summits Are Notable For Their Extreme Technical Difficulty, And They Have Been The Scene Of Some Of The Hardest Climbing Done At High Altitude Anywhere In The World.

On the other hand, the Latok is a band of stagy, rocky peaks to the east of the Baintha Brakk or Ogre peaks.

These rocky peaks are extremely hard to summit and you can deduce this from the fact that the Ogre was first summited in 1977 and its second summit occurred 24 years after the first summit. On the other hand, Latock was first summited by a team of Japanese climbers in 1979. Most of the attempts to these peaks have remained unsuccessful.

Duration:  35 days Altitude: 7,285m 
Range:  Karakorum  
Camp nights:  25-30 Hotels nights:  4-6
Grade: Extremely Difficult Best Period: Mid June to August

Day 1: Arrival to Islamabad

Welcoming and receiving at Islamabad International airport and shifting to the hotel. Here meet with the group and during the day visit to the famous bazaars, Mosque and other places in Islamabad depending on time

Day 2: Islamabad to Skardu By flight or KK Highway

Given good weather we will fly to Skardu (perhaps the most spectacular commercial flight in the world, with magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the 9th highest mountain in the world. If the weather doesn’t allow the flight we take the Karakorum Highway on the old silk route. This is just spectacular. It’s a long drive but one of the great journey’s of the world between the deep gorges of the mighty Indus. Overnight hotel in Chilas, driving over Babsur Pass will minimize the distance and the night stay will be in Naran. (10-12 hour drive).

Day 3: Free day at Skardu

Go for the briefing at the Ministry of tourism A free day in Skardu, meanwhile we will complete the documentation. Sometime it may take two days, but no need to worry, we have contingency days for such delays.

Day 4: Jeep ride to Askoli

Today we take a Jeep ride to Askoli 3,150m. The last village between us and Baintha Brakk from where we begin our trek towards the peak the following morning.

Day 5 Trek to Namla 6-7 hrs 3690m

Day 6: Trek to Mango 4-5hrs 3660m
Day 6 to Day 24 reserved for climbing
Day 25-27: Trek back and drive to Skardu
Day 28: Fly to Islamabad
Day 29: Contingency day
Day 30: Homebound flight

The Trip Cost Includes

  • Lodging at base camp (single supplement)
  • Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom, showers & solar charge
  • All internal/domestic transport
  • All domestic flights
  • 60kgs personal baggage
  • All meals during trek and expedition (B,L,D)
  • Permit & royalty fee
  • Liason officer(s) – equipment fee and allowance
  • Group emergency equipment/satellite phone service with fixed calling charge
  • Staff insurance (guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistant(s) & porters etc)
  • Kitchen staff including
  • Porters for all expedition supplies

The Trip cost Excludes

  • International airfare
  • Personal climbing equipment for any 7,000m peak, clothing & sleeping equipment
  • Mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance policy – mandatory
  • Personal equipment cargo to/from Islamabad
  • Pakistan visa fee
  • Tips/gratuities to staff, cook, assistant(s) of US$ 350 -500 in total
  • Meals in Islamabad
  • Extra hotel nights after the climb
  • Trip cancellation insurance
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early wind-up/summit (extra hotel nights, meals at hotels, evacuation)
  • Charges incurred due to delays beyond the control of World Adventure Tours (Force majeure)
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country.
  • Items not mentioned in the included list

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Baintha /Orge/Latok group (7,285m)

Trip Facts

  • 2-10
  • 7,285m
  • Skardu Baltistan
  • Islamabad/Lahore
  • Breakfast, lunch, Dinner
  • Hotel and Camping