Diran Peak (7,272m) - 27 Days

Diran Peak is one of the beautiful and hard mountain in the Karakorum range in Nagar. It is in the region of Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers and is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway. There is confusion about its height but now all agree that it is 7,272m. Height, it is one of the fascinating peaks that dominates the Gilgit valley and adds special color to its otherwise rugged beauty.

A three-member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, decided to try its luck on Diran in 1968 after being refused permission to climb Kampire Dior peak. They set up camp 1 at 4,800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow is recorded between camps I and II. It was from camp Ill that the party was able to reach the peak which it termed as a “big summit plateau”. The 1958-British expedition to Diran peak failed to climb it from north-west face because its leader, E.G.C. Warr and a member, F.C. Hoyte, were struck by storm and disappeared when only 300 feet from the summit. On the 9th June, one member, Erwin Stocker, and one porter reached an 18,000-foot-col situated to the north of Diran. Subsequently, the party could reach a place which was less than one thousand feet short of north-west face of the summit. In 1964, an Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted to climb the peak from the north-west face but was unsuccessful because of bad weather and danger of avalanches. The party had only three climbers. In 1965, a Japanese expedition of Kyoto Mountaineering Federation attempted to climb the peak. Earlier, in 1963 two of its members had reconnoitered the peak. The party was only 250ft from the summit on north-west face when it had to abandon the climb because of ‘strong winds and whirring snow. In 2016, Miss Irena Mrak from Slovenia with her three friend tried to summit but due to bad weather condition could not make it.

Duration:  27 days Altitude: 7272m 
Range:  Karakorum  
Camp nights:  22-25 Hotels nights:  4-6
Grade: Difficult Best Period: July to September

Day 1: Arrival to Islamabad

Welcoming and receiving at Islamabad International airport and shifting to the hotel. Here meet with the group and during the day visit to the famous bazaars, Mosque and other places in Islamabad depending on time

Day 2: Islamabad to Gilgit By flight or Via KKH

Given good weather we will fly to Gilgit with magnificent views of Nanga Parbat the 9th highest mountain in the world. If the weather doesn’t allow the flight we take the Karakorum Highway on the old silk route. This is just spectacular. It’s a long drive but one of the great journey’s of the world between the deep gorges of the mighty Indus. Overnight hotel in Chilas, driving over Babsur Pass will minimize the distance and the night stay will be in Naran. (10-12 hour drive).

Day 3: Hire Porters for Expedition

Go for the briefing at the Ministry of tourism.meanwhile we will hire porters and get things ready.

Day 4: First day, Trek to Hapakun

We set off early to avoid the heat of the day. The route is gentle and enjoyable. We will be trekking for around 3-4 hours to the Hapakun camp today

Day 5: Trek to Taghafari
Today,We will walk towards Taghafari, which is Base Camp of Rakaposhi.
Day 6: Trek to Diran Base Camp

Another early walk of approximately five Minutes brings us to the snout of the Diran/Minapin glacier. After viewing the outpouring of melt water from the ice we climb up on to the back of this great beast. At this point the ice of the glacier is completely covered by rubble and rocks and the going here can be quite tough.Finally reaching at Diran Base Camp (4400m).

Day 7-Day 22 : Climbing Diran Peak
Day 23: Trek back to Taghafari
Day 24: Trek to Minapin & drive to Gilgit
Day 25: Fly to Islamabad
Day 26: Contingency Day
Day 27: Homebound flight

The Trip Cost Includes

  • Lodging at base camp (single supplement)
  • Full base camp with dinning tent, bathroom, showers & solar charge
  • All internal/domestic transport
  • All domestic flights
  • 50kgs (110 lbs) personal baggage
  • All meals during trek and expedition (B,L,D)
  • Permit & royalty fee
  • Liason officer(s) – equipment fee and allowance
  • Group emergency equipment/satellite phone service with fixed calling charge
  • Staff insurance (guide, cook, kitchen staff, assistant(s) & porters etc)
  • Experienced cook from Pakistan
  • Kitchen staff
  • Porters for all expedition supplies
  • Solar power at base camp
  • Communication radio (walkie talkie)
  • Weather reports from reliable Western sources

The Trip cost Excludes

  • International airfare
  • Personal climbing equipment for any 7,000m peak, clothing & sleeping equipment
  • Mountain climbing rescue and evacuation insurance policy – mandatory
  • Personal equipment cargo to/from Islamabad
  • Pakistan visa fee
  • Tips/gratuities to staff, cook, assistant(s) of US$ 350 -500 in total
  • Meals in Islamabad
  • Extra hotel nights after the climb
  • Trip cancellation insurance
  • All expenses incurred in the event of early wind-up/summit (extra hotel nights, meals at hotels, evacuation)
  • Charges incurred due to delays beyond the control of Apricot Tours (Force majeure)
  • Personal communication (phone, fax, e-mail) between Pakistan and home country.
  • Items not mentioned in the included list

You can send your enquiry via the form below.

Diran Peak (7,272m)

Trip Facts

  • 2-10
  • 7,272
  • Minapin, Nagar District
  • Islamabad
  • Breakfast, lunch, Dinner
  • Hotel and Camping