Masherbrum Expedition - 33 Days

Masherbrum Peak known as Karakorum 1

Masherbrum Peak(7,821m) is known as K1. In 1856, Thomas Montgomerie,noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorum and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorum’s). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum. Masherbrum is located in Khaplu territory of Ghanche District at the height of 7,821m is the 22nd highest mountain in the world and 9th highest in Pakistan. It was the first mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range, hence the known as “K1”.

Highest Peak Among the Masherbrum Range

Masherbrum Peak is the highest one of the Masherbrum Mountains range of the Karakoram. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8,000 meters (26,000 ft.) peaks of the main range of the Karakoram which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousands, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II.

 The South of Baltoro Glacier

The Masherbrum Mountains lie to the south of the Baltoro Glacier and the main range of the Karakoram lies to the north of the Baltoro. The main range is the continental divide of southern Asia. Rivers to the south flow into the Arabian Sea. Rivers to the north flow into the Tarim Basin.
The most common route for accessing the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram is Baltoro glacie, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro every year. It also lies at the north end of the Hushe Valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak.

Masherbrum Peak Climbing History

Dr. William H. Workman and his wife Mrs. Fanny Bullock Workman reconnoiter Masherbrum Peak in 1911. It was first attempted in 1938 from the south; the attempt failed just short of the summit.
After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, part of an American-Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch. They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.

Little More About Masherbrum Peak

The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.
In her book Voyage au Bout du Vide: UneCordėe Alpine au Masherbrum, the French mountaineer Christine de Colombel provides a dramatic account of her 1980 attempt, with David Belden, to ascend Masherbrum in alpine style. Their three-month expedition, bedeviled by bad weather, ended in failure when avalanches swept their camp and injured de Colombel, leading to a desperate three-day retreat in whiteout conditions.