Spantik Peak Expedition - 25 Days

Spantik Peak

Spantik Peak is known as Golden Peak situated in the karakorum range between the Baltistan region of Arando valley and Nagar District of Gilgit territory.

Expedition in 1899

The Spantik Peak first attempt was made in 1899 via the Southeast ridge by famous American couple Dr. and Mrs. William B Workman climb from Chogolungma Glacier Arandu side. Their record remained the highest record in mountaineering for woman. They ascended up to 330 meters of the summit.

More about Spantik Peak

The German Spantik Peak Expedition climbers used the same route headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and titanic plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the imminent Southwest spur. Most recently Spantik 7027 has been a favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevation and climbing.

Easy approach by Southeast ridge

Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. Skardu-Arandu side the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. The South East Ridge is the normal route which is a bit long but easy one.

High altitude experience needed!

Although technically easy Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an excellent physical condition as well as regular practice is necessary to be on this expedition.